It is important to know the facts about what each Acid has to offer in professional treatments. This understanding helps the professional make the best product choice to achieve results with all skin types & conditions. NOT ALL ACIDS ARE CREATED EQUAL.
ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS: Some alpha hydroxy acids, when naturally sourced, are derived from the sugars found in plants & fruit. Often referred as "fruit acids" They are organic acids that are hydrophilic or water-soluble. It is generally more favorable to use products and professional treatments formulated with pure and natural AHAs. The recognized family of AHAs includes citric acid(citrus), Glycolic acid (plant sugars), lactic acid (sour milk), malic acid (apples), mandelic acid (bitter almonds) and tartaric acid (grapes). At the cellular level, these six acids work by dissolving the glycoprotein adhesive and desmosomes that bond keratinocytes and corneocytes. This "loosening" of impacted stratum corneum encourages faster cell turnover and helps stimulate collagen and elastin deposition. AHA use can stimulate the skin's rebuilding powers by increasing the production of its building blocks, collagen and elastin. strengthening the skin, reducing wrinkles and laxity apparent in aging skin.
CITRIC ACID: Considered one of the mildest members of the AHA family. Typically derived from oranges, lemons, limes, strawberries and pineapples. Citric acid does not create irritation or inflammation. Effective in smoothing fine lines and correcting uneven skin tone caused by photo damage. The end result is smoother, thicker, more hydrated skin with reduced stratum corneum impaction.
LACTIC ACID: The natural AHA constituent of human skin. It is produced in the muscles and then resides in the protective acid mantle covering the skin. The molecular weight of lactic acid is somewhat large, therefore its penetration into the skin is slower, reducing the occurence of edema (swelling) and erythema (redness) during and after treatment. Lactic acid has numerous beneficial functions for the skin. It is well known as a moisturizer, humectant, exfoliant, skin lightener, pH regulator and antimicrobial agent. Excellent choice for treating aging skin, as it smoothes and brightens the skin while keeping it plump & hydrated.
GLYCOLIC ACID: Derived from plant sugars (sugar cane, beets & rhubarb). It is has the smallest molecular size of the AHA family. Seen as a benefit it has the faster penetration through the stratum corneum, which can lead to erythema, edema & patient discomfort. Most commonly used AHAs in anti-aging treatments and skin care products. It accelerates skin exfoliation, eliminates dead cell accumulation & stimulates new cell growth. Higher concentrations must be used to see visible results. Long time use can cause dryness, irritation & redness. Long term use of topical glycolic acid sensitizes the skin to damaging effects of UV light & makes it susceptible to oppurtunistic skin cancer (according to a study published in The Dermatology Times).
MALIC ACID: Derived from apples offers not only smoothing and strengthening benefits, but also moisturizes and hydrates the skin. It plays a vital role in the complex process within the cells of deriving adenosine triphosphate( ATP-- the body's energy). Relating to fumaric acid, an integral part of the Kreb's cycle or respiration cycle of our cells.
TARTARIC ACID: Derived from grapes or from the sediment of wine. used for centuries to smooth the skin.
MANDELIC ACID: Derived from bitter almonds it has shown great results in treatment of melasma, skin pigmentation and other dyschromias.